Boat trip with the Gabares of the Upper Dordogne in Spontour!

Today we're taking you on a unique barge trip. Nestled amidst enchanting mountain scenery, on the Dordogne River downstream from the Aigle dam, Spontour is a small hamlet belonging to the commune of Soursac. It's here that the Gabarre de Haute-Dordogne awaits you, for a journey into the heart of the lives of the inhabitants of these riverbanks, shaped by the river's turbulent waters. We'll listen to a friendly guide and, in a cheerful atmosphere, we'll navigate the river to admire the landscape, learn about the geology, and hear stories linked to the adventures of the Dordogne bargemen. Quite an epic journey!

A boat trip that's as educational as it is fun

Embark on a courpet, a traditional flat-bottomed boat (gabarre) from this part of the Corrèze region. We cast off at Spontour, a pretty little hamlet that is part of Soursac. After crossing the Luzèges gorges (if you're coming from Lapleau, it's absolutely stunning!), park and wait for the small barge. For 1.5 hours (book well in advance), the barge captain and guide will transport you back to the lives of the courageous freshwater sailors, who certainly didn't lack bravery to face the turbulent waters of the Dordogne. Because yes! Today everything is calm and peaceful (well, sort of…) thanks to the dams, but before that, nature and rainfall ruled the roost! As for work, the barge captains couldn't set off on their pilgrimage to the Gironde estuary until the water levels were high. The gabarres are flat-bottomed boats, but a certain draft was necessary for navigation and often, this meant difficult weather conditions !

On board the barge, there is no protection from the sun or rain. Therefore, it's essential to bring accessories appropriate for the weather! In summer, bring a hat and water ; when it's raining or chilly, dress warmly! Sunglasses, sunscreen, or a parasol will be essential on hot days. The crew on board is very friendly; we enjoyed the scenery as much as their kindness: a perfect duo, sometimes quite a show!

The job of a bargeman

Not an easy job, you could even say it was a calling, because it took real heart and courage to make the trips downriver in flat-bottomed boats to the towns further downstream (Argentat, Beaulieu, Souillac, Bergerac, Libourne… all the way to the Bec d'Ambès where the Dordogne joins the Garonne), and even Bordeaux. During the boat trip (don't worry, it's very calm), the guide will show you, with the help of printed photos, what the valley looked like before the dams were built. You'll understand two things: that the river is an integral part of people's lives here, and that the dams have truly changed things for the better, but not only that! We're between the Aigle Dam and the Chastang Dam, and while the water is still high at this time of year (in the middle of summer), it's been hot for quite some time, and you can see that the water level isn't at its maximum (just look at the vegetation on the banks). The dams regulate the water level, but to have enough water to do so, valleys had to be flooded. And you can see it perfectly well! Look at the tops of the submerged trees sticking out of the water. Not easy for navigation, but luckily our bargemen are experienced.

The boat will travel downriver to the confluence with the Luzège River, then turn around. Feel free to ask the guide (Sébastien) any questions; he'll be happy to answer them and has excellent knowledge of the area. Note that the magnificent scenery is best appreciated in the evening and morning light.

Don't miss this boat trip! Children as young as 2 can join the whole family (free for children under 5). It's a peaceful and fun experience on the water – lots of laughs! A great way to discover local heritage.

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