Ride with the Gabares of Haute-Dordogne in Spontour!

Today we're taking you on a gabarre ride like no other. In the middle of an enchanting mountain landscape, on the Dordogne downstream from the Aigle dam, Spontour is a small hamlet that belongs to the commune of Soursac. This is where the Gabarre de Haute-Dordogne awaits you, for a journey to the heart of the lives of the inhabitants of these banks, tormented by the river. We'll listen to a friendly guide and in a good mood we'll sail on the waves to admire the landscape, understand the geology and listen to the stories related to the adventures of the gabarriers of the Dordogne. Quite an epic!

Photos from the report: Corrèze Guide

A boat trip that is as educational as it is fun

Embark on a courpet, a traditional barge (or gabarre) from this part of Corrèze. We cast off at Spontour, a pretty little hamlet that is part of Soursac. After crossing the Luzèges gorges (if you are coming from Lapleau, it is super pretty!), park and wait for the little barge. For 1h30 (book well in advance), the bargeman and the guide will transport you into the life of the courageous freshwater sailors, who did not lack courage to face the tumultuous waters of the Dordogne. Because yes! Today everything is calm and peaceful (well, it depends...) thanks to the dams, but before that it was nature and the rainfall that ruled! Also in terms of work, the bargemen could not leave to make their pilgrimage to the Gironde, before the high waters were present. Gabarres are flat-bottomed boats, but a certain draft was necessary to navigate and often, this meant difficult weather conditions !

On board the barge, there is no protection against the sun and rain. It is therefore necessary to come with accessories in accordance with the weather! In summer, take a hat and water, when it rains or is chilly, cover yourself! Sunglasses, sunscreen or an umbrella will be essential on hot days. The team on board is very friendly, we appreciated the scenery as much as their kindness: a perfect duo, worthy of a show sometimes!

The job of a bargeman

Not an easy job, you could even say it was a vocation, because it took heart and solid courage to make the descents in barges to the towns further downstream (Argentat, Beaulieu, Souillac, Bergerac, Libourne... to the Bec d'Ambés where the Dordogne joins the Garonne), and even Bordeaux. During the boat trip (don't worry, it's very calm) the guide will show you, thanks to printed illustrative photos, the face of the valley before the dams. We understand 2 things: that the river is an integral part of the lives of the people here, that the dams have really changed things for the better, but not only that! We are between the Eagle dam and the Chastang dam and if the waters are still high at this time of year (in the middle of summer), it has been hot for a long time and we can see that the water level is not at its maximum (look at the vegetation on the banks). The dams regulate, but to have enough water to do this, it was necessary to flood valleys. Besides, we can see it perfectly well! Look at the tops of the submerged trees protruding from the water. Not easy for navigation, fortunately our bargemen are seasoned.

The boat will descend to the confluence with the Luzège, then turn around. Do not hesitate to ask questions to the guide (Sébastien) who will be happy to answer you, he has a very good knowledge of his subject. Note that the magnificent landscapes will be better highlighted by the evening and morning lights.

Don't miss out on this trip; the whole family can go on board from the age of 2 (free for children under 5). It's a very peaceful and fun time on the water, we'll have a good laugh! A great initiative to help you discover the local heritage.

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